Painting Skies Wet-in-Wet

QUESTION:
I hope you can help me as I am getting frustrated trying to paint skys, I have just started to paint and when I try to add another colour into a sky ( wet into wet ) most of the time it bleeds into the first colour rather than blending smoothly with the first colour. Regards Steve.

SUSIE'S REPLY:

Steve, I hope I can give you a tip or two that will help. Believe me you are not alone when it comes to running into problems working wet-in-wet.

• My first tip is to experiment using less water when you wet your paper in using the wet-in-wet techniques. You do need to have the paper wet enough for the paint to spread when you stroke it onto the paper but if it is too wet the paint might travel more than you want it to.
• Second, check the amount of water in your brush as you add color (and more water) to your painting, if your paper is wet with water, and you add one color with more water then add another color with more water you colors may be overtaking the first color as the water tries to level out. Most of the time it is a water issue... either too much or not enough! It does take some practice to find a balance.
• Third, don't soak or wet both sides of your paper. Doing this does give you a longer working time but waterloged paper could be part of your problem. If you are wetting both sides, try only wetting the top surface and see if that works better for you.

When painting skies and placing one color next to another allow for the paints spreading. Leaving a white space between the two colors will give you some room for the colors to spread then as the paint starts to settle somewhat tilt the paper back and forth to allow the paint to travel and either blend or just fill in the white gap you left.

When working wet-in-wet as the paint starts to settle and the wet paper starts to loose its shine you need to pay close attention to the amount of moisture in your brushload as you continue to paint. With less water and more pigment the paint will not spread as much and you get more concentrated heavier clouds that stay where you place them. They still have a soft edge because the paper is still damp.
If you are not extremely careful about the water in your brush it is easy to get a back run or water mark (aka water blossom) when the wet brush touches the damp paper. Practice will be your best friend as you learn how to read the wetness of your paper and your brush loads.

Keep trying! The more you practice the better it will be.
SUSIE

Watermarks and Blending Off

QUESTION: Hi Susie,
I recently took your ROSE CLOSE-UP CLASS and enjoyed it a lot. I tried to practice at home and found that every time I blended with water or went back to add color to an area that was previously painted, I would make watermarks, and make the original color run and ruin everything. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks, Christine

SUSIE'S REPLY: Hi Christine! This is a common problem and a great question for me to share. Maybe we need to make a bumper sticker just for us watercolorlists that reads... Watermarks happen! I'm sure there would be many who can relate to this problem!
Watermarks (also called "blossoms" or "balloons") happen when the wetness of paint (or water) in your brush is greater than the moisture or wetness of the paint on your paper. When the water or paint you add to your paper the liquid is unequal to what's already there it will level off (spread out). This leveling process will "push" the paint particles as it levels out causing a watermark. It's actually collection of concentrated paint particles moved to the edge of the wetter area.
If watermarks are your problem, the solution is to use less water in your blending brush. Try blotting your brush to remove some of the moisture in it before you touch the paper to blend off.
I'll try to put together a new watercolor tip with photo illustrations to show what I talking about. In the mean time take a piece of scrap paper and do some blending practice exercises. It does take practice to be able to "read" your papers dampness and adjust the moisture in your brush accordingly.
I hope that helps! SUSIE

Masking Fluid

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QUESTION: Hi Susie,
I appreciate your web sites ease of navigation and helpful
information. I am shocked by how much I have forgotten
since 1976. Back in school we used rubber cement as a
masking liquid. Is this not suggested anymore?
Thanks CS

SUSIE'S REPLY:
Thanks for the kind words and encouragement! Wow, you
do have a lot to catch up on when it come to the advances
watercolor has made in the art world! How fun! About using
rubber cement as masking: you can still use it but 
there are some newer (and thinner) masking fluids available
now that are so much easier to apply. One I particularly like
is the Masque Pen. It comes in a small plastic bottle with it's
own applicator tip so you don’t even have to use a brush to
apply it. Look for it in your local art store and if you don’t 
see it there, most online art suppliers carry it.

Thanks for writing! Happy Painting!
SUSIE 

Using Fixatives & Masking Tapes

QUESTION:
Susie, I have two questions, one about finish spray for a painting, and the other about the tape to hold the watercolor in place. I sprayed some of my paintings with the spray fixative, then I tried a clear varnish enamel. That gives a beautiful finish, but what is the right thing to do? Also, I use masking tape to hold the paper, because the paper tape they recommend is so hard to take off afterwards. Thanks-Opal

SUSIE'S REPLY:
Hi Opal! I'm glad you asked me these questions!

1. I sprayed some of my paintings with the spray fixative, then I tried a clear varnish enamel. That gives a beautiful finish, but what is the right thing to do?
   The favored way to preserve watercolor paintings is to place them behind glazing (such as glass or Plexiglas) when they are framed. It is also recommended that there is a space between the watercolor painting and the glazing so that the painting does not make contact with the glazing. Using a complimentary mat usually provides this space. Framers also use a product they call "frame space" (a small strip of plastic) that is placed under the lip of the frame between the glazing and the painting if you do not want to mat the painting.
   
   Generally, watercolor paintings are not treated with a spray fixative. I'm sorry I don't have first hand knowledge to share with you since I do frame my paintings under glass or Plexiglas.
   But I can tell you an artist friend of mine does use a spray fixative for some of her larger work and recommends Golden Archival Spray Finish. She says to spray 4-5 light coats of the Golden Archival Varnish Spray Gloss Finish first then spray 4-5 light coats of Golden Archival Varnish Mat Finish. You want to do this in a well ventilated area and be sure to let the painting dry between each coat of spray.
   Then she applies a coat of Acrylic Mat medium (with a brush) to make the surface totally sealed and scrubable.
   
2. I use masking tape to hold the paper, because the paper tape they recommend is so hard to take off afterwards.
   If you are referring to the type of paper tape used while stretching watercolor paper I'm out of the loop when it comes to recommending alternatives. I don't stretch my watercolor papers. Sorry.
   If you are talking about using the tape to secure your watercolor paper while you are painting. Masking tape may be used but there is a great tape made for us called "Artist's Tape" (available at most good artists supply stores ) that is archival so its is also great for framing. It holds securely and is easy to remove. It is more expensive than masking tape but well worth the extra cost if you don't run the risk of damaging your paintings. Use it on dry paper not soaked paper.
   BTW: I don't tape down my watercolor paper before painting on it. I like to paint on loose/unsecured/unstretched Arches 140# CP watercolor paper. Sometimes I will put a small piece of artist tape on the corners to keep it in place when I using an easel or painting outside. Other artists do tape more then I do -- this is just my way of doing it!

I hope that gives you some ideas. Thanks for writing!

SUSIE
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Watercolor Paints & Papers

QUESTION:
Hi Susie -I have a few questions please. Which is better tube paint or hard paint?
And does it matter which paper you use thick or thin? Thank you for your time. Gary

SUSIE'S REPLY:
Hi Gary - thanks for your questions!

1. Which is better tube paint or hard paint? Both are good. It's a personal choice as to which is better. It depends on the style and techniques you are striving to achieve. Most watercolorists do prefer working with moist watercolor paint and many will only use freshly squeezed paint. I guess I'm probably in the minority because I do like working with dry paint. I painted with wet paint for over twenty years because I'd read somewhere or heard someone say that colors were brighter when you used fresh paint. I took a workshop with Zoltan Szabo (one of my watercolor heroes!) and discovered that he used dried paint and his work was wonderfully colorful so I decided to try the dried paint. I found my niche. Working with dried paint allowed me to get the color saturation and value I wanted without making "blossoms". Water control is often a problem with new painters and this seemed to be a helpful tip for my student too.
   I do use tube paint to fill my wells and allow it to dry rather than the pre-formed watercolor cubes (called pans) that some manufacturers offer.
2. And does it matter which paper you use thick or thin? I believe (and preach!) the most important factor to successful watercolor painting is the paper you use. There are several paper manufacturers and that produce high quality watercolor papers. Again it is a personal choice. Thicker watercolor papers (i.e 300#) hold more water so they stay wet longer and allow longer painting time. The thinner medium weight but highly adequate 140# watercolor paper is probably the most popular choice because due to availability and price. The thinnest 80# or lighter watercolor papers don't take much water so they are best suited for drier watercolor techniques and other mediums such as markers, pastels, or colored pencils.

All watercolor paper is not the same! Different brands use different fibers and sizing. Some are better than others for different applications. Experiment to find the type of watercolor paper that works best for your painting style.

I recommend and use Arches 140# Cold Pressed watercolor paper. It an economical medium weight paper with a very durable surface and works well for most watercolor techniques. I like to use it for my workshops because it is very forgivable...and allows for moderate scrubbing and corrections when needed.

HINT: Don't settle for cheap paper! Life's too short to use bad paper. Find the brand and type that works best for you. Even when learning to paint. Too many people try to learn how to paint on student grade "cheaper" paper and literally work them self into bad habits and never achieve the desired results.

I hope that helps! Happy painting!
SUSIE
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Palette layout

QUESTION: Susie, I took your landscape class and I'll be back for more. I want to set up my palette to let them dry. I checked your palette layout suggestion but I now have all of the two sets and some extras so I'm confused how to go about it. I have the same palette as yours. Thanks for any help. Sharon

SUSIE'S REPLY: Hi Sharon -- Try painting the swatches I mentioned in the previous post. As you start arranging your watercolor palette you may find you have more wells than you have paint. If that's the case, simple skip a well every so often to reserve a space to add a new color later. More often we have more watercolor paint than wells to hold them. In this case you will need to make a choice of which watercolor paints you want to include and which ones you will leave out. I do occasionally put two watercolors side by side in the same well if they are compatible won't hurt if I get a tiny smidgen of each when I load my brush. (Example: Ultramarine and French Ultramarine)

Remember you can always squeeze a dab of fresh paint if you decide need it for a painting.

TIP: For dry paint: When filling your palette, layering the paint and allowing it to dry between layers will keep it from cracking as it dries. I usually have 3 or 4 layers. It takes a little longer to add the layers but they do dry faster when the paint is spread thinner.

Good luck! Enjoy squeezing that paint!
SUSIE

Here is a suggested layout or arrangement for the Richeson Watercolor Palette
You are welcome to print a copy!

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Color Wheel Placements

QUESTION: Susie,
I have both the Susie Short basic 7 set of split primaries and the "intermediate" set from Daniel Smith. My question is how do I know where the intermediate set fits in on the color wheel--in other words, is there a way to tell if Quinacridone Coral is warm or cool? Do you have a handout that shows how those colors fit in?
Thanks --- Judi

SUSIE'S REPLY: Hi Judy, Thanks for your question. There is not a hand out for placement of the intermediate colors on a color wheel. I do have a recommended palette layout for watercolors on my website that includes most of my colors by Daniel Smith. (It's rotated for easy printing.)
One of the best ways to determine if a watercolor paint is warmer or cooler than it's neighbor is to paint a little postage stamp size swatch of each and compare them. If you still can't visually see the difference, try mixing a secondary color with it. For example: If you were testing a red (like Quinacridone Coral!) mix an orange. If you get a pretty clean orange instead of slightly dirty looking orange then the red doesn't contain blue and would be considered a warm red. For secondary colors you simply need to visually compare them to each other, no mixing required.
BTW: Quinacridone Coral is a nice warm red. Compare it to Quin Rose or Quin Pink which both have a touch of blue in them.
HINT: If you make swatches of all the colors you plan to put in your palette you can arrange these little color swatches in the order you want to place them in your palette. Its easy to make adjustments and rearrange them "before " you squeeze out the paints.

I hope that helps! Thanks again for your question!
SUSIE
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