Buckling paper on Watercolor blocks

QUESTION:  Susie, I have a problem. Almost a year ago I bought 140 lb, cold pressed, 16"X10" 'The Langton' block by Daler & Rowney. I stored it well for 11 months. yesterday when I tried to paint on it the paper buckled up also it dries very fast and is almost like bloating paper. I never had this problem before.

I sent a mail to D&R about the problem but no reply yet. It's been 11 months since I bought it so the dealer refused to replace it. .

Tried to stretch it. I didn't sock it for 10 minutes but sprayed some water until it's fully wait then wiped it and taped it to the board. Didn't work at all. Is there any other way?  

Colombo, Sri Lanka

 

SUSIE'S REPLY: Thanks for writing.

You say you haven’t experienced this problem before, have you always used this same type of paper? Or is this a different paper brand?

Just because it is 140# CP doesn’t mean it will work the same or is equal to other 140# CP brands.

I’m not as familiar with the 140# Langston block as I am Arches 140# papers but perhaps I can offer you some suggestions.

Please forgive me if these points sound basic or over simplified but since I have no way of knowing how much you know I’ll approach these hints as if you were a beginner minimal experience.

• ·    When watercolor paper is wet the fibers expand and if the paper is tacked down or sealed around the edges it will wrinkle or buckle.

•      Many artists soak and stretch their watercolor paper as a way of dealing with this issue.

• ·    Watercolor Blocks are designed to paint on without stretching the paper. Watercolor Blocks are sealed with a glue around the edges and are designed to paint on without stretching the paper. Because there is no allowance for expansion when the paper is wet (causing buckling) blocks work best when using dry brush techniques which require less moisture thus less expansion/buckling.

• ·    For best results for painting on watercolor blocks (by any paper manufacturer) use techniques requiring less water.

The traditional recommendation would be: If you will be working wet in wet, remove the paper from the block, fully soak the paper by submerging it in water then stretch it by tacking and taping the edges so it dries taunt.

My personal choice: I don’t stretch my paper, I prefer to keep it loose so I can rotate it as I paint and I do work wet in wet without buckling. When the paper is loose it can expand and contract at will. If it is tacked down (without being stretched-including glued edges as in the wc block) it doesn’t have room to expand when you wet it. I might use a clip or tack to hold the paper in place if needed.

I’m not sure I helped with the buckling issue you experienced when working wet in wet. I do believe you can use the paper if you use less water and more dry brush techniques.

Every type of paper, every brand of paper, has different traits and personalities. Not every type/brand is suited for every painting style.

I hope that helps.

Keep on painting!

SUSIE

PS. Joan asked: Concerning the buckling problem, couldn't she iron the one she is concerned about? Since she can't fix it any other way. I would use a towel maybe dampened a bit to try and get it to lay flat.

Thanks Joan! Yes, a medium warm iron will help to flatten the buckles. I usually dampen the back of the entire painting using a damp paper towel, making sure I also get the edges damp not just the middle where the wavy area might be more obvious, allow the paper time to expand. The wc paper will be limp and a little floppy. Then protect the wc paper with a layer of paper such as a brown paper bag torn open to a single layer when you start to iron the wc paper. The heat from the iron will help the fibers shrink back into place evenly. Using gentle pressure helps the process too. 

Stretching Watercolor Papers- Removing Sizing

QUESTION: Hi, I just finished your DVD Painting across America The Oregon Coast. The DVD was fun easy to follow. I do have one question about stretching paper. There are several pros and cons to stretching. One of the pros that I have been taught is that stretching removes the sizing. What do you think? Debbie

SUSIE'S REPLY: Hi Debbie! I'm so pleased you enjoyed the DVD on painting the Oregon Coast. Thanks!
About stretching watercolor paper: If you asked five different instructors about the pros and cons of stretching watercolor paper, you'd probably get five different answers. That's because we all develop our own style and techniques for painting and what works best for us as we learn to paint. None of us are wrong, but my method may not be best for someone else's style. And that's OK!
What do I think?
About sizing: For me personally, I like the sizing on my paper. Sizing enables me to use techniques that require a more durable paper surface. (Like glazing, scrubbing and lifting) I use Arches 140# CP for most of my paintings. I understand (with Arches watercolor paper) the sizing is added to the paper pulp as it is processed (referred to as internally sized) so the sizing is the same on both sides of the paper. Some brands of watercolor papers spray the sizing on the surface after the paper is made. I'm guessing those papers might need to have some of the sizing removed to make the paint flow better for the artist. Which is better? It really depends on the technique and style of the individual artist.
So for me personally for my style of painting removing the sizing isn't a pro, it's a con.
More About stretching: I know some artists who will not paint on unstretched paper...period!
My preference is to paint on high quality unstretched loosely secured watercolor paper. I enjoy the freedom to tilt and bend the flexible paper to create interesting mingling of the paint if my painting session take a turn in that direction. Plus I work on a number of paintings at the same time so if I did stretch my paper I'd need dozens of backer boards to hold my works in progress.
When I've worked on the taunt surface of stretched paper it wasn't that I didn't like it, but I did need to make adjustment to my brushstrokes and work differently.
Call me lazy, but personally, I'd rather be painting than spending the extra time it takes to stretch my watercolor paper. But that's me!

Thanks for your question!
SUSIE

Using Fixatives & Masking Tapes

QUESTION:
Susie, I have two questions, one about finish spray for a painting, and the other about the tape to hold the watercolor in place. I sprayed some of my paintings with the spray fixative, then I tried a clear varnish enamel. That gives a beautiful finish, but what is the right thing to do? Also, I use masking tape to hold the paper, because the paper tape they recommend is so hard to take off afterwards. Thanks-Opal

SUSIE'S REPLY:
Hi Opal! I'm glad you asked me these questions!

1. I sprayed some of my paintings with the spray fixative, then I tried a clear varnish enamel. That gives a beautiful finish, but what is the right thing to do?
   The favored way to preserve watercolor paintings is to place them behind glazing (such as glass or Plexiglas) when they are framed. It is also recommended that there is a space between the watercolor painting and the glazing so that the painting does not make contact with the glazing. Using a complimentary mat usually provides this space. Framers also use a product they call "frame space" (a small strip of plastic) that is placed under the lip of the frame between the glazing and the painting if you do not want to mat the painting.
   
   Generally, watercolor paintings are not treated with a spray fixative. I'm sorry I don't have first hand knowledge to share with you since I do frame my paintings under glass or Plexiglas.
   But I can tell you an artist friend of mine does use a spray fixative for some of her larger work and recommends Golden Archival Spray Finish. She says to spray 4-5 light coats of the Golden Archival Varnish Spray Gloss Finish first then spray 4-5 light coats of Golden Archival Varnish Mat Finish. You want to do this in a well ventilated area and be sure to let the painting dry between each coat of spray.
   Then she applies a coat of Acrylic Mat medium (with a brush) to make the surface totally sealed and scrubable.
   
2. I use masking tape to hold the paper, because the paper tape they recommend is so hard to take off afterwards.
   If you are referring to the type of paper tape used while stretching watercolor paper I'm out of the loop when it comes to recommending alternatives. I don't stretch my watercolor papers. Sorry.
   If you are talking about using the tape to secure your watercolor paper while you are painting. Masking tape may be used but there is a great tape made for us called "Artist's Tape" (available at most good artists supply stores ) that is archival so its is also great for framing. It holds securely and is easy to remove. It is more expensive than masking tape but well worth the extra cost if you don't run the risk of damaging your paintings. Use it on dry paper not soaked paper.
   BTW: I don't tape down my watercolor paper before painting on it. I like to paint on loose/unsecured/unstretched Arches 140# CP watercolor paper. Sometimes I will put a small piece of artist tape on the corners to keep it in place when I using an easel or painting outside. Other artists do tape more then I do -- this is just my way of doing it!

I hope that gives you some ideas. Thanks for writing!

SUSIE
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Stretching Watercolor Papers

QUESTION: Hi Susie, I am so new to watercolor, that when I read my first book and it told me to soak my paper in the bathtub and stretch it before painting I was stunned! I quickly read through several other books and some say yes, some say no. I am just back from Italy where I picked up some wonderful (I think) watercolor paper and watercolor pencils because I wanted to paint what I saw there. I have painted in oils before, and love them, but this is very foreign to me. So many questions. If my paper is small - or long and thin, and I am using watercolor pencils rather than brush and paint, should I still stretch it? What kind of surface do I stretch it onto? Is there a special 'board' to buy, or just a hunk of plywood? Also. Would I be happier with my results of I paint my images, or will the pencils do just as well? Do you have any favorites for paint or pencils? And do you ever travel to Minnesota for a workshop? I looooooooove your work and would love to take a class from you but not sure how I could work out a trip to Washington. btw, do you have the costs of your workshops posted somewhere too? Wow! A lot of questions. I will patiently wait for the answers. (ok, I will try :D ) Laurel/Minnesota

SUSIE'S REPLY:

Hi Laurel! You've asked some good questions! Let's address them one at a time.

1. If my paper is small - or long and thin, and I am using watercolor pencils rather than brush and paint, should I still stretch it?
   No, it is not necessary to pre-stretch all papers before you paint on them with watercolor. This is especially true if you will be using watercolor pencils. Anytime you are using paint and a brush with very little water while painting there is no need to stretch the paper. Those speciality papers you mentioned may not respond well to the stretching process either.
2. What kind of surface do I stretch it onto?
   Artists who religiously stretch their watercolor paper seem to each have their own special supports to recommend. Plywood could be used but there are other options that are lighter in weight and easier to manage. Some artists like to use "gator board" which is like a heavy duty foamcore. What you want is something that is rigid and unyielding to the pressure of the paper as it shrinks and tightens.
   [In the stretching process the soaked paper is expanded and secured so that when the paper dries the paper has a taunt surface. This stretched/taunt surface will not buckle or wrinkle when wet paint is applied. The wetter the paint the greater the expansion and possibilities for resulting buckles.]
   Some artists like to tape their watercolor paper down to a board without stretching it first -- just to hold it in place while they paint. They get a nice clean edge around the edges when the tape is removed. Taping unstretched paper does not help with buckling.
   As for me, I never stretch! Some artists might call me lazy but I don't like to spend the time to stretch my paper. I go through so many pieces of paper each week that if I did stretch my paper I wouldn't have time to paint! I don't stretch my paper and I don't attach it to a support by taping or stapling. If I decide I need to paint with the paper at a slight tilt to achieve a certain effect I might put a couple of thumb tacks in the top corners to keep it from sliding while I work. By not restricting the paper it can expand when it's wet and contract again as it dries without buckles or wrinkles. It will stay relatively flat as it continues to dry.
3. Is there a special 'board' to buy, or just a hunk of plywood?
   There are some special "stretching" boards an the market. You might check the online art supply store to see what they have to offer.
4. Would I be happier with my results if I paint my images, or will the (watercolor) pencils do just as well? That is going to be a question for you to answer! It depends on what you want the end results to be and you own unique painting style. I think you will like to use both methods for different applications and unique situations. And there is nothing wrong with combining the two!
5. Do you have any favorites for (watercolor) paint or (watercolor) pencils?
   I do have favorites that I find myself returning to again and again. I'll share my favorite watercolor paints and watercolor pencils and brands in another post. What I do recommend is that you use the best you can afford. Professional or artist quality is preferred over student quality. The best doesn't always mean the most expensive either. Start out with a few basic colors and add to them as you have the chance.
6. And do you ever travel to Minnesota for a workshop?
   I don't have anything planned but would welcome the opportunity to hold a workshop in your area. If you belong to an art group that would be interested in hosting a workshop have them contact me susie@susieshort.net. I'll be happy to send them a copy of my rates and workshop topics. Thanks for asking!
   

That's a lot of questions for one post. I hope this answers most of them. Thanks!

Happy painting! SUSIE
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