tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-89415191507693620302024-03-05T05:09:22.208-08:00Ask Susie - Watercolor Q & AWatercolor Artist and Instructor Susie Short replies to questions about watercolor painting, watercolor paints, watercolor papers, watercolor brushes, palettes, etc. Discussion includes basic to advanced watercolor techniques, terminology, color theory and color mixing. If you have a watercolor question - Ask Susie!Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.comBlogger78125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-2990409087115146722017-01-08T14:18:00.000-08:002017-01-08T14:40:17.084-08:00Liquid Frisket aka Masking Fluid<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: red;">QUESTIONS: Hi, Could you tell me which liquid frisket would be best to use that would cover good and that would NOT damage your paper when lifted. Thank you soooo much. Carrie/Nevada</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;">SUSIE'S REPLY: Thanks for your question Carrie! There are several good liquid friskets aka masking fluids on the market today that won't harm your paper when removed. It is important to remember that masking fluids or liquid friskets should not be left on the paper for an extended period of time. Your type of watercolor paper needs some careful consideration too. Some watercolor paper's surfaces are softer and will not hold up to the wear and tear masking sometimes requires.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;">In my classes I use several masking fluids when painting my greeting cards. Each type serves a different purpose. These are all available online or in local art supply stores.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><br /><span style="background-color: yellow;">Pebeo Drawing Gum</span> is a gray color which makes it easy to see when applying. It has a very thin consistency which helps to make some fine lines. </span></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Contains latex.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="background-color: yellow;">Daniel Smith Masking Fluid</span> is milky in the bottle and dries clear to amber in color. This makes it easy to see and helps to determine the values when painting over it with darker paints. This manufacturer advertises that it can remain on the paper for a month or more after application. I find this to be true. </span></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Contains latex.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="background-color: yellow;">Incredible White Mask</span> is a high-quality, non-pigmented liquid frisket is ideal for watercolor
masking. It dries to a neutral cream color that shows through dry paint,
so that you can see exactly where you've masked. Slightly thicker in consistency.</span></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"> Contains latex.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="background-color: yellow;">Winsor <span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">/</span> Newton Colorless Art Masking Fluid</span> a removable </span><span style="color: #274e13;">colorless liquid specifically
designed for soft sized papers to avoid staining. Contains latex. Wash
brushes immediately after use.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: yellow;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: yellow;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Blick Liquid Frisket </span></span> Tinted orange color makes it easy to see. Works best on sized paper, and should not be used on wet paper. Remove the frisket by peeling or rubbing with a soft eraser. Ideally,
it should be removed within 24 to 48 hours to achieve the best results. Contains latex.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><br /></span><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: yellow;">Masquepen Art Masking Fluid </span> The pale blue water-based latex solution is easy to see, apply, and peels away from paper without harm. Easy to see when wet or dry. It comes in a squeeze bottle with a needle tip making application simple and effortless. Contains latex.<br /><br /><br /><span style="background-color: yellow;">Molotow Grafx Art Masking Liquid Pump Markers</span> these ready-to-use, refillable markers contain a water-repellant masking fluid that applies cleanly and rubs off easily, leaving no residue. Molotow's patented pump delivery system assures precise, mess-free application and sharp edges. Latex free. A must for the plein air painter! An empty marker is also available to fill with other masking fluids.</span></span><br /><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #274e13;">More info: </span></span><br />
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<i><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b>Masking Fluids</b> prevent
the paper from absorbing color. Use a watercolor mask before you apply a
wash to protect areas that you want to remain white. Peel away the mask
when it is no longer needed.</span></span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">
</span></span></i><i><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Most masking fluids use natural latex or a synthetic compound with
very similar characteristics. Some may contain an artificial colorant so
that you can easily identify the areas you have masked.</span></span></i></div>
Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-82507307530521826662017-01-08T13:21:00.000-08:002017-01-08T14:24:14.451-08:00Best Pencil for Drawing or Sketching on Watercolor Paper<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span data-offset-key="bnf4i-0-0"><span data-text="true"><span style="color: red;">Q: Whats the best pencil to use when drawing out my sketches on my watercolor paper? I'm using Arches 140# paper. Thanks</span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #38761d;"><span data-offset-key="bnf4i-0-0"><span data-text="true">Susie's Reply: First of all you do not want to do a lot of drawing or sketching on watercolor paper if you will be doing any erasing For my classes I show my students how use either a hard lead 3H with a light touch to draw simple shapes or to trace an image via a light box. You don't need a detailed drawing just a shape or to locate an edge. Add details later. If I use a regular HB pencil, the lead or graphite is much softer resulting in a darker line so I erase most of the line just leaving a vague mark. This also helps keep the lead or graphite from being "sealed" in once paint or water is applied over the line. Some colors allow for erasing the pencil line from underneath and some do not. If I'm drawing on a dried wet-in-wet underpainting I like to use watercolor pencils that will blend in when painted over. As for the watersoluable pencils I find they work best when adding darker values to a light passage as they dissolve into the darker paint. But I find that they tend to "dirty" light juicy washes. I suggest to apply lighter value colors freely without lines first then go back and define the edges if you need to. The darker colors cover the lighter ones and you don't even know they were there. Challenge yourself to do as much as you can without the details of a drawing...add the details as you go. You will find your painting will not be as tight if you don't try to paint inside the lines. Go with the flow, let the watercolor paint itself, then adjust the edges to bring out the best parts of what happened! </span></span></span></span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-91048447681365437852013-01-01T17:54:00.003-08:002017-01-08T13:21:54.969-08:00Scraping Tool used for Watercolor???<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="mso-bookmark: _MailOriginal;"><span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Hello Susie!<br />
I think your work is amazing!<br />
I watched your videos, and stopped at the <a href="http://artstore.susieshort.net/preview-wintercreek1111as.html" target="_blank">Watercolor Winter Landscape Card</a>
video.<br />
That is absolutely amazing, like everything else you do!<br />
I want to ask you something since, i myself, am a painter; What is the <span style="background-color: yellow;">scraping
tool you are using?</span>
And do you allways wetten your paper before painting with watercolor?<br />
Thank you for sharing you great videos!<br />
Rasmus</span></span><span style="font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
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</span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d; font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Susie's Reply:</span><br />
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<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-themecolor: dark2;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #38761d;">Hello,<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-themecolor: dark2;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #38761d;">Thanks for writing! I appreciate your kind comments.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-themecolor: dark2;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #38761d;">No, I do not always wet the paper first. Sometimes, when I want to maintain hard edges I paint directly on dry paper. Sometimes I dampen the paper slightly in a small area before I apply my paint.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-themecolor: dark2;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #38761d;">My <b><span style="background-color: yellow;">scraping tool</span></b> I’ve used in the video is a plastic card (credit card or gift card) cut into a desirable shape with rounded corners perfect for scraping white trees into wet passages of darker color. Here is a <a href="http://learningcenter.susieshort.net/tech-creditcardtrees.html" target="_blank">link to two short demos</a> you can print using this tool and technique.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-themecolor: dark2;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #38761d;">Watch for more videos coming soon in 2013.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-themecolor: dark2;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #38761d;">Happy Painting!<o:p></o:p></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #38761d;">Susie<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;"></span><br />
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<a href="http://www.blogger.com/null" name="_MailAutoSig"><span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">Visit my websites:<o:p></o:p></span></a></div>
<a href="http://www.susieshort.net/home"><span style="mso-bookmark: _MailAutoSig;"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">www.susieshort.net/home</span></span><span style="mso-bookmark: _MailAutoSig;"></span></a><span style="mso-bookmark: _MailAutoSig;"><span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<a href="http://learningcenter.susieshort.net/"><span style="mso-bookmark: _MailAutoSig;"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">http://learningcenter.susieshort.net</span></span><span style="mso-bookmark: _MailAutoSig;"></span></a><span style="mso-bookmark: _MailAutoSig;"><span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<a href="http://artstore.susieshort.net/"><span style="mso-bookmark: _MailAutoSig;"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">http://artstore.susieshort.net</span></span><span style="mso-bookmark: _MailAutoSig;"></span></a><span style="mso-bookmark: _MailAutoSig;"><span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "tahoma" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="mso-bookmark: _MailAutoSig;"></span><br />Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-43399571064696821052012-04-20T13:12:00.000-07:002012-04-20T13:16:26.346-07:00Watercolor Paper<br />
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="color: red; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">
Hi Susie,</div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="color: red; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="color: red; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">
In the last few weeks I ordered your DVD's Beyond the
Sunset and Texas Bluebonnets and Live Oaks.
They are great videos. Would you
let me know what kind of paper you are using?
My paper will not get as pliable as yours does when it is wet. I am using 140 pound, Strathmore cold press paper. Thanks, Marie</div>
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<br /></div>
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SUSIE'S REPLY: </div>
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Hi Marie,<br />
Thanks, I'm pleased your are enjoying the DVD's. </div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">
I use and recommend Arches 140# CP paper. It is strong and durable and it works best for my style of painting. And it is a good choice for beginners who are just learning the watercolor techniques.</div>
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">
There are several good watercolor papers, sometimes it is fun and beneficial to experiment to see what other papers will do and how they will perform with your personal style of painting. Online art suppliers offer sampler packets to "test the waters" so to speak at a reasonable price. </div>
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<span style="color: #274e13;">Of all my watercolor supplies I believe </span><u style="color: #274e13;">the most important is my paper.</u></div>
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<br />
Happy Painting!<br />
SUSIE</div>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-79419107407758836802012-04-20T12:42:00.003-07:002012-04-20T12:44:09.542-07:00Drawing with Watercolor Pencils<br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Hi Susie, I’m curious about something. Is it considered
cheating to start off watercolor with watercolor pencils? I’ve been considering doing it that way first to
teach myself the brush strokes I’d be most comfortable with by following the pencil lines. Although I’m
not sure if that would hinder using actual watercolors. Can you help me with this? Thank you for your time, Courtney</span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif";"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif";">Susie's Reply:</span></div>
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</div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">Personally, I don’t like pencil lines in my work so using a
watercolor pencil to “save” an area as I paint in my shapes is a good choice
for me. Drawing with watercolor pencils is one of my favorite ways to
create a guideline that assists with accurate placement when you want to paint
more freely.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">Keep in mind the watercolor pencil lines will dissolve when
water is added.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">Cheating? Certainly not!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">Use them if they help you as you learn. You never know, you may
outgrow their usefulness.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">Happy Painting!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">SUSIE</span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;"><span style="color: #38761d;">P.S. Use similar colors that you will use when painting i.e. Use a pink wc pencil to draw a pink rose and a green wc pencil to draw the leaves. A watercolor pencil can also be used to sign a painting. A lighter color or metallic wc pencil is very effective over dark paint.</span></span></div>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-3270141871274194402012-02-17T17:30:00.000-08:002012-02-17T17:31:50.511-08:00More questions about gum arabic used for watercolors<span style="color: red;">QUESTION: Why is photo-grade gum arabic less expensive than gum arabic sold for watercolors? Can photo-grade gum arabic be used with watercolor? Thank you :-) </span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">SUSIE"S REPLY: I did some investigating and I've learned that gum arabic is used in several forms for several purposes from food stabilizers to inks and textiles. It can be obtained in a powder, syrup, chunk solids, or pellets.</span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">Some of its non food uses include traditional lithography, when used in paints, inks, glues, and printing.</span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">As you mentioned it is also used in photography as well as cosmetics. Another interesting thing I learned was it is used on the postage stamps we once licked to stick on our mail. </span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">My guess would be the photo grade gum arabic's chemical components are different than the gummy syrup used in manufacturing watercolor paints.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">Can you use photo-grade gum arabic with watercolor? If you are mixing your own tube paints it seems to me the thicker syrup type would make a more stable base for the paint. </span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">Since I don't mix my own paint thats just my guess. Let me know if you discover any thing different!</span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">Thanks for your question,</span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">SUSIE</span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-48525071107362155832012-02-17T17:04:00.000-08:002012-02-17T17:04:17.079-08:00Metal vs Plastic watercolor palettes<span style="color: red;">QUESTION: Hi, Susie. I use tube paints and I'm wondering the differences between a metal palette and a plastic palette? Which one is best? I would like to keep my paints in the palette<br />
and mist them to re-use the colors. Any suggestions? Debby</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">SUSIE'S REPLY: Debby-- Using the metal enameled butcher type trays for a watercolor palette is a very popular choice. When I began painting in the 60's I had several I used and I loved the extra large mixing areas. I can see how they would be ideal for mixing and pouring paint if you are into that technique. The metal palettes usually don't come with lids to protect the paint between uses.</span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">The plastic palettes come in several shapes and sizes and many do have lids to help keep paints moist between painting sessions. These plastic palettes are lighter for taking with you when traveling back and forth to classes or for painting outside.</span><br />
<br />
<strong><span style="color: #274e13;">Which is best? I think it's a personal choice and it should be based on what works best for you.</span></strong><br />
<br />
My current palettes are the Richeson 22 well plastic palette (with lid) and the 32 well Jones Palette with lid. Both have flat bottom wells and large mixing areas without speedbumps. But those are my personal choices based on my painting style.<br />
<br />
Thanks for writing!<br />
SUSIESusie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-57606726554844313772012-02-17T15:24:00.000-08:002012-02-17T15:26:24.741-08:00Copyright issues when painting from a demo<span style="color: #cc0000;">QUESTION: </span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #cc0000;">:-) Hi Susie Happened upon your site as I was looking for sea scapes/waves breaking, I,m a beginner In art, I was enthralled by your easy demo of waves, may I ask you the gram weight of the water colour paper you use, as well as to ask if I follow your patterns and instructions and do a painting, I see it is copy right, does that mean I am not allowed to show the finished article at a art gallery, and put my name on the finished painting? obviously I will change as much as I can to make it look different, I would not like to do anything illegal, waiting in anticipation for your answer. YVONNE<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">SUSIE'S REPLY: </span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Hello Yvonne,<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Thanks for writing. I like to use Arches brand watercolor paper for most of my work and for the waves I use 140# Cold Pressed paper or 140# Rough watercolor paper.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #274e13;">The copyright applies to my rights concerning the instructional content, protecting my instructions from being used my another for monetary gain. As with most patterns and reference material used for instructions you are welcome to paint from it and sign it with your name. Some instructors recommend if you work from their patterns or painting examples you sign the your painting as a study. Example: Your Signature, Study of Making Waves by Susie Short. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #274e13;">I’m not that strict. Understand that many other students will be painting from the same resources so your painting will not be as unique as it would if you were working from your own resources. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<ul><li><span style="color: #274e13;"> <span style="font-family: Calibri;">As for showing or displaying the study…Let your conscience be your guide. You will know how much is “copied” and how much is original or adjusted by you to make it your own work. </span></span></li>
<span style="color: #274e13;"> </span>
<li><span style="color: #274e13; font-family: Calibri;">Displaying the study in a group or personal show is acceptable as long as it is identified as a study.</span></li>
<span style="color: #274e13;"> </span>
<li><span style="color: #274e13; font-family: Calibri;">I <u>do not</u> think a study qualifies as an entry in a juried competition. </span></li>
<span style="color: #274e13;"> </span>
<li><span style="color: #274e13; font-family: Calibri;">It is ok to give a study as a gift. </span></li>
<span style="color: #274e13;"> </span>
<li><span style="color: #274e13;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">It is not against any “rules” to sell a study as long as you are not misrepresenting it as an original work. </span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Art work for sale in most art galleries is presumed to be original work created by the signing artist. It’s not worth the risk of ruining your reputation or relationship with a gallery to display a work that might be questioned at a later date. </span></span></li>
<span style="color: #274e13;"> </span>
<li><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #274e13;">It is <u>not ok</u> to make reproductions of a study for personal profit.<o:p></o:p></span></span></li>
<span style="color: #274e13;"> </span></ul><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #274e13;">I hope this information is useful and answers some of your questions. I’m not a lawyer so please do not consider my opinions to be legal advice.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Happy Painting!!!<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Susie<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-54316900794102271442012-02-17T14:26:00.000-08:002012-02-17T15:15:46.613-08:00Moldy Watercolor Palettes<b><span style="color: red;">QUESTION:</span></b><br />
<span style="color: red;">I left my watercolors in the palette over the summer to garden. From time to time I put a damp cloth over them & sprayed them with water. Several have grown mold. I'm able to scrape off the mold. may I use them w/out trouble. How do you store watercolors in a palette for up to 2-3 months? </span><br />
<span style="color: red;">Judy, Olympia, WA</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><b>Susie's Reply:</b> </span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">Hi Judy, I have several suggestions for you. Let's start with the mold issue. Scraping the mold off is a good start. A solution of vinegar and water will also neutralize any mold spores that remain.</span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">If the paint is a professional grade watercolor it should be OK.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">Let's talk about storing watercolor paint in a palette. Allowing the paint to dry between painting sessions is not going to harm the paint especially if its professional grade. </span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">Many artists prefer to paint with freshly squeezed paint straight from the tube. </span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><span style="color: #38761d;">Some watercolor paints are made with emollients or additives (such as honey) that aide in keeping the paint moist.</span> Many believe that the paint must be kept moist to maintain the paint's integrity. For many years I was included in this group of believers. And I can't tell you how much paint I washed down the drain at the end of each painting session. It wasn't until 1990 when I was fortunate to take a workshop with Zoltan Szabo that I learned dry paint was just as vibrant when reactivated as it was straight from the tube. <br />
Some watercolor pigments and the formulas the manufacturers use are better suited for using dry than are others. <br />
So here are my suggestions: If you feel you must use moist paint don't squeeze out more than you can use in a few days or maybe even up to a week. Use a palette with a snug lid and consider putting a moist sponge in the mixing area when the lid is on the palette.<br />
If you will not be using the paint again in a few days, remove the lid and allow the paint to dry naturally. When you are ready to paint again add some fresh paint on top of the dried paint and replace the lid. The moisture will sink down into the dried paint. </span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">I hope this helps answer your questions.</span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">SUSIE</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;">Comment: I have 2 large palettes with paint in them....when I go to class they are too large to transport conventiently...I have since bought a smaller palette....is it okay to take the old paint out of one of the larger palettes and use it in the smaller palette? Is there an easy way to do this? Thanks Dee Cee</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Yes! </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: #274e13; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It is fairly easy to transfer paint from one watercolor palette to another. When the paint is dry its almost like a rubber block that will "pop" out of the well with some gentle prodding. Secure the dry paint block in the new palette well by squeezing some fresh paint of the same color into the well to act as a glue. Let it dry to cure and setup before using it.<br />
Clean the paint block with a damp brush if there is renegade paint dried on it. Try it! Susie</span><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span> </span></span><span style="color: black;"></span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-23668374063525286962012-01-26T14:37:00.000-08:002012-01-27T12:50:10.231-08:00Using Acrylics and Watercolor Together<div style="color: red;">QUESTION: Could I spray my watercolor background with an acrylic then paint on top with acrylic paints? Alicia</div><div style="color: #274e13;">SUSIE'S REPLY: Thanks for writing!</div><div style="color: #274e13;">Acrylics and watercolor are both water soluble and considered water based mediums. </div><div style="color: #274e13;">Once an acrylic dries it becomes a type of plastic and is no longer water soluble.</div><div style="color: #274e13;">You can paint acrylics over a watercolor base or background without any problems. There is no need to spray the background first. However, you can not paint watercolor over an acrylic background without creating some issues. These issues may or may not be a problem. Usually watercolor, being vulnerable to moisture needs to be protected from exposure. A clear acrylic fixative would be recommended to protect watercolor over acrylics.</div><div style="color: #274e13;">Having said that, I need to add that the more watered down the acrylic is the more acceptable it is to a watercolor glaze over it. On the other hand, if the acrylic under painting is thick and not porous it will be difficult for watercolor to stick to it.</div><div style="color: #274e13;"><br />
</div><div style="color: #274e13;">There are several outstanding artists who do combine acrylics and watercolor very successfully.</div><div style="color: #274e13;">Good luck in your adventures!</div><div style="color: #274e13;">SUSIE</div><span style="line-height: 5pt;"><br />
</span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-53915614761571106832012-01-26T13:47:00.000-08:002012-02-17T17:07:21.713-08:00Gum Arabic and Acrylics<div style="color: red;">QUESTION: Hi Susie, could I use Gum Arabic as a retarder for Acrylic Painting. I do like to work wet with my acrylics so that I can get better blending in my painting. I do have a retarder but i would like to try another form of keeping my paints wet. I am not into watercolours yet as I am still in the learning stages. Thank you for your advice Vera S<span style="color: black;"> </span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #274e13; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">SUSIE'S REPLY: Hi Vera, I'm not a chemist but I don't think gum arabic would make a suitable retardant for acrylics. It's used as a binder in watercolors because it dissolves with water. I'm sure if it worked well with acrylics it would be promoted and sold by the acrylic manufacturers.<br />
Keep painting and learning! Practicing and painting every chance you get helps you learn from experience.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"> </span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;">Thanks for writing!<br />
SUSIE<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"> </span><span style="line-height: 5pt;"></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 5pt;"></span></div><span style="line-height: 5pt;"><br />
<span style="color: black;"> </span></span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-35074905766957086722012-01-26T13:22:00.000-08:002012-01-27T12:50:31.294-08:00Buckling paper on Watercolor blocks<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: red;">QUESTION: Susie, I have a problem. Almost a year ago I bought 140 lb, cold pressed, 16"X10" 'The Langton' block by Daler & Rowney. I stored it well for 11 months. yesterday when I tried to paint on it the paper buckled up also it dries very fast and is almost like bloating paper. I never had this problem before.</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: red;">I sent a mail to D&R about the problem but no reply yet. It's been 11 months since I bought it so the dealer refused to replace it. .</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: red;">Tried to stretch it. I didn't sock it for 10 minutes but sprayed some water until it's fully wait then wiped it and taped it to the board. Didn't work at all. Is there any other way?<span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span></div><div style="color: red;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma,Verdana; font-size: x-small;">Colombo, Sri Lanka</span></div><span style="color: #9933cc;"><span style="font-family: Tahoma,Verdana; font-size: xx-small;"> </span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">SUSIE'S REPLY: Thanks for writing.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">You say you haven’t experienced this problem before, have you always used this same type of paper? Or is this a different paper brand?</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Just because it is 140# CP doesn’t mean it will work the same or is equal to other 140# CP brands.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I’m not as familiar with the 140# Langston block as I am Arches 140# papers but perhaps I can offer you some suggestions.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Please forgive me if these points sound basic or over simplified but since I have no way of knowing how much you know I’ll approach these hints as if you were a beginner minimal experience.</span></div><div class="MsoListParagraph" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; text-indent: -0.25in;"><ul><li><span style="font-size: small;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span>When watercolor paper is wet the fibers expand and if the paper is tacked down or sealed around the edges it will wrinkle or buckle.</span></li>
</ul></div><div class="MsoListParagraph" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; text-indent: -0.25in;"><ul><li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span>Many artists soak and stretch their watercolor paper as a way of dealing with this issue. </span></li>
</ul></div><div class="MsoListParagraph" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; text-indent: -0.25in;"><ul><li><span style="font-size: small;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span>Watercolor Blocks are designed to paint on without stretching the paper. Watercolor Blocks are sealed with a glue around the edges and are designed to paint on without stretching the paper. Because there is no allowance for expansion when the paper is wet (causing buckling) blocks work best when using dry brush techniques which require less moisture thus less expansion/buckling.</span></li>
</ul></div><div class="MsoListParagraph" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; text-indent: -0.25in;"><ul><li><span style="font-size: small;">·<span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span>For best results for painting on watercolor blocks (by any paper manufacturer) use techniques requiring less water. </span></li>
</ul></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>The traditional recommendation would be:</b> If you will be working wet in wet, remove the paper from the block, fully soak the paper by submerging it in water then stretch it by tacking and taping the edges so it dries taunt. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>My personal choice:</b> I don’t stretch my paper, I prefer to keep it loose so I can rotate it as I paint and I do work wet in wet without buckling. When the paper is loose it can expand and contract at will. If it is tacked down (without being stretched-including glued edges as in the wc block) it doesn’t have room to expand when you wet it. I might use a clip or tack to hold the paper in place if needed.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I’m not sure I helped with the buckling issue you experienced when working wet in wet. I do believe you can use the paper if you use less water and more dry brush techniques. </span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Every type of paper, every brand of paper, has different traits and personalities. Not every type/brand is suited for every painting style.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">I hope that helps.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #274e13; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Keep on painting!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #274e13;"><div style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">SUSIE</span></div><div style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: red; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">PS. Joan asked: Concerning the buckling problem, couldn't she iron the one she is concerned about? Since she can't fix it any other way. I would use a towel maybe dampened a bit to try and get it to lay flat.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: red; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="color: red; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #274e13;">Thanks Joan! Yes, a medium warm iron will help to flatten the buckles. I usually dampen the back of the entire painting using a damp paper towel, making sure I also get the edges damp not just the middle where the wavy area might be more obvious, allow the paper time to expand. The wc paper will be limp and a little floppy. Then protect the wc paper with a layer of paper such as a brown paper bag torn open to a single layer when you start to iron the wc paper. The heat from the iron will help the fibers shrink back into place evenly. Using gentle pressure helps the process too. </span> </span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div></div>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-90073833755756515922012-01-11T15:04:00.000-08:002012-01-27T12:51:33.155-08:00Different paper for better results<div style="color: red;">QUESTION: Hello, I am trying to do a somewhat abstract painting with watercolors. I am using 140 lb. canson watercolor paper. I am pre wetting areas and then applying the color so it will spread randomly. However, I don't even have that much water on the paper but It fuzzes up and starts falling apart. Would bumping up to 300 lb. watercolor paper help? Colin</div><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">SUSIE'S REPLY: Hi Colin,</span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">You might want to try another brand of paper. Just because the weight of the paper is 140# does not mean they share the same equality. Bumping up to 300# Canson will not guarantee a better outcome. </span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">The sizing and cotton pulp is the same in the 140# and the 300# of Canson.</span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">Try Arches 140# CP or Stephen Quiller 140# CP by Richeson</span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">Both of theses papers will hold up when soaked in multiple applications.</span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">I hope this helps!</span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">SUSIE</span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-38836035301541704562012-01-11T14:36:00.000-08:002012-01-27T12:45:13.876-08:00Good paint? Bad Paint?<div style="color: red;">QUESTION: I received two new 37ml tubes of Winsor-Newton watercolor paint -- squeezing the tube I do not get paint initially but an oily fluid -- is this paint at the bottom of the tube usable. Cad Red and Cerulean Blue - Ray T</div><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;">SUSIE'S REPLY: Hi Ray! The amber oily looking fluid is gum arabic. All brands of tube watercolors include water soluble gum arabic as a binder. Sedimentary pigments do settle and separate somewhat in the tube when they sit on a shelf or in your paint box for a while. When you first open a tube of paint and see the gum arabic at the top put the lid back on the tube and shake or knead it a little to mix it back into the pigments. Using a toothpick or straightened paper clip to stir the paint in the tube has also worked for me to mix it back into the paint. The pigments remaining in the tube are not harmed by having less gum arabic but they may solidify and harden in the tube if they are not used for a while.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;">Cadmium Red and Cerulean Blue are both sedimentary pigments so I would expect to see some <span style="color: #274e13;">settling in the tubes.</span></span><span style="color: #274e13;"> </span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">I like painting with dry paint rather that freshly squeezed paint so this is no longer an issue for me. I prefer to squeeze the whole tube of paint into my palette well, stir it up to reintegrate the gum arabic and allow the paint to dry in the well before I paint with it. It works very well for my style of painting.</span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">Thanks for your question! Happy Painting!</span><br />
<span style="color: #274e13;">Susie</span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-32727540261457976642011-12-04T15:04:00.000-08:002012-01-27T12:52:06.467-08:00Painting Watercolor on Canvas<div style="color: red;"><b>QUESTION</b>: Can you paint watercolor on canvas? Any special preparation or tips? </div><div style="color: red;">Thanks! Kathy, Duluth, MN</div> <br />
<span style="color: #38761d;"><b>Susie's Reply</b>: In a word...YES! And you guessed correctly, raw canvas does need to be treated or preped for the watercolor to adhere to it without soaking into the canvas. Gesso is widely used as a ground applied to canvas to prep it for painting but regular gesso is non absorbent and doesn't work for watercolor. Daniel Smith developed a watercolor ground that makes it possible to paint with watercolor on almost any surface. </span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">You'll find out more about this new product on the Daniel Smith website:</span> <br />
<a href="http://www.danielsmith.com/Item--i-284-055-001">http://www.danielsmith.com/Item--i-284-055-001</a><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">Just a little disclaimer: I don't work for Daniel Smith, I recommend their products because I believe in them and I am familiar with the products I recommend.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">There is also a watercolor canvas made especially for watercolor by Fredrix. It's available in pads, stretched canvas, and mounted on watercolor boards. Most art suppliers carry this product.</span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">I have experimented with painting on watercolor canvas and had fun trying new techniques. As I said it was fun, but not a suitable substitute for my signature style of painting. Try it you may like it!!!</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">Thanks for writing Kathy! Let me know how you like these products if you try them!</span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d;">SUSIE</span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-31470742153166149922011-12-04T13:57:00.000-08:002012-01-27T12:52:51.474-08:00Watercolor Brush Question<div style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">QUESTION: Brush Question </span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">I just purchased your waves video in addition to Painting Sentimental Roses. I want to know exactly what brand and type of Daniel Smith round brushes you used in the painting waves demonstration. Thank you so much! KW<o:p></o:p></span></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><o:p></o:p></span><span style="color: #38761d; font-size: small;">SUSIE'S REPLY:</span></div><div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="color: #38761d; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">I use the Daniel Smith Platinum Series 23 Multi-Media Synthetic Round # 10 and #8. H</span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">ere is a link to the DS site.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d; font-family: Calibri; font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.danielsmith.com/Item--i-G-657-010"><span style="color: blue; font-family: Calibri;">http://www.danielsmith.com/Item--i-G-657-010</span></a></span><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: small;"><span style="color: #38761d;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: small;"><span style="color: #38761d;">They are very reasonability priced so I recommend getting two of each size (#10 and #8) They will last twice as long if you alternate using them. <o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
<div class="MsoPlainText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: small;"><span style="color: #38761d;">To some artists it looks like I abuse my brushes...I prefer to say I make them work for me. I scrub and lift and splay the bristles to create textures. If the tip loses its point, these are cheap enough to replace it with a new one and use the worn brush for those rougher techniques. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div><span style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: small;"><span style="color: #38761d;">I do have a couple of sets of brushes on my site for convenience but my supply is very limited. I package my favorites for my students so they can order them when they order the DVDs.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="color: #38761d; font-family: Calibri; font-size: small;">I do mark them up slightly since I don't get much of a discount from DS. </span><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://artstore.susieshort.net/brushes.html"><span style="color: blue; font-family: Calibri;">http://artstore.susieshort.net/brushes.html</span></a></span><span style="color: #38761d; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">You probably get a better price per brush by ordering from DS directly.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: small;"><span style="color: #38761d;">Thanks for asking!<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: small;"><span style="color: #38761d;">Happy Painting!<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: small;"><span style="color: #38761d;">Susie<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span></span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-24581006904516633632011-02-21T18:13:00.000-08:002011-02-21T18:25:40.733-08:00Setting up a new watercolor paletteQUESTION: Susie, I have read your tips on setting out the watercolors in my brand new palette. I will follow the ideas of using the colorwheel to fill the wells (84) with empty wells in between to fill as new colors are added. Do I add glycerin and water to the colors as I put them in the palette wells? Do I empty the colors straight from the tubes into the palette? The palette has a cover, so that will help to keep the colors dust-free. Thank you for your help. I look forward to your advice. JHY<br /><br /><span style="color:#006600;">Susie's Reply:</span><br /><span style="color:#006600;">Hello!<br />Thanks for writing! Before you squeeze out any paint check the tube to see if the paint has settled and separated. The binder in watercolors is gum arabic and it is clear gooey stuff that sometimes rises to the top of the tube if the tube has been setting for a while. You may need to kneed the tube or turn the tube upside down for 24 hours to let the pigments re-mingle with the binder.<br />When setting up the new palette squeeze the paint directly from the tube into the wells. You do not need to add anything to the paint. Some colors will be wetter than other colors naturally.<br />I have better luck when I fill the well about half full then stir the paint with a toothpick to evenly distribute it and make sure all the tiny air bubbles pop and the gum arabic is mixed in well. Allow it to dry then add more paint to fill the well. Stir to mix and level off the paint in each well. Leave the cover off to speed up the drying time. Dry it completely before using it if you have time.<br />When you are ready to paint, simply dampen the colors with your brush as you use them. Some colors will reconstitute easier than others.<br />DON’T spritz the whole palette with water to prepare your paint for painting. That will break them down and make the paint crumble.<br /><br />84 wells will hold a lot of paint choices. Have fun!<br /><br />SUSIE</span><br /><span style="color:#006600;"></span><br /><span style="color:#006600;">PS. I forgot to add if your watercolor paint is a brand that contains honey it will not dry in the palette wells, it will always remain tacky and gooey. That type of paint is formulated to remain damp so it will not work for this suggested setup.</span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-13024960665561188842010-11-29T11:53:00.000-08:002010-11-29T12:27:07.510-08:00Easy Christmas Cards with Masking FluidHi Susie,<br />Help! I want to paint my own Christmas cards this year and I'm running out of time!<br />I am not totally new to watercolor but I am new to the use of masking fluids. What tips can you give me to to create a card using masking fluid to reserve the whites for the snow. I need ideas to get me going. Thanks. EJ<br /><br /><span style="color:#009900;">Hello EJ -- Good for you! Hand made holiday cards are always welcome and appreciated! </span><br /><p><span style="color:#009900;">Here are a few tips:</span></p><ul><li><span style="color:#009900;">If you are using the packaged blank cards (precut with envelopes) be sure the paper will support a wet application. </span></li><li><span style="color:#009900;">When shopping for blank cards look for cards made for watercolor or use standard watercolor paper cut to the size you need to fit your envelopes.</span></li></ul><p><span style="color:#009900;">Masking fluids are a great way to reserve whites when painting Christmas cards. There are several brands of masking fluid available in many art stores, some are clear and some are tinted. They are similar in how they are applied and how they work. Use what works best for you.</span></p><p><span style="color:#009900;">As for ideas and inspiration, I have a new </span><a href="http://susieshort.net/watercolor-tips-winter2010.html"><span style="color:#33ccff;">Winter Landscape card lesson </span></a><span style="color:#009900;">using masking fluid on my website. It's free to print for your personal use. </span></p><p><span style="color:#009900;">Let me know what you think!</span></p><p><span style="color:#009900;">Happy painting!</span></p><p><span style="color:#009900;">SUSIE</span></p>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-54559219919245340942010-10-21T11:06:00.000-07:002010-10-21T11:50:27.901-07:00Colors of a mountain lake???<span style="font-weight: bold;">Question:</span> What colors do you mix for a mountain lake? Trying to watercolor a photo of a mountain lake in Yosemite. Angela<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Susie's Reply: </span><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">This question doesn't have a definitive answer. There are several color options and several factors to consider when painting still water as you would see in a mountain lake.</span><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"> </span><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Unless the water is merky from <span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);" class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">algae</span><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"> or muddy from recent rains the water itself is grenerally clear and without much color. <span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">What influences the color of the water the most is the</span> reflections of what is around it. Deep water is usually darker and more reflective than shallow water where you can see the bottom.<br />I know this answer may seem a little vague but without seeing your lake and what's around it I'm not sure what colors to suggest. I can tell you that I would use the same colors I used to paint the trees and mountains around the lake.<br />Another factor that influences the what we see in a reflection is the angle of incidence or the location of the eye of the viewer vs. </span></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">angle of reflection located on </span></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">the surface of the water. If we are looking down into a lake what we see is quite different than what we see if we are standing closer to the water level on the shore of the lake.<br />In most cases the color of the water is a darker value than the local color of its surroundings.<br />I know this doesn't give you a "formula" to mix up before you paint the water but I hope you can look at the colors surrounding your lake and see what you might use to create an illusion that pleases you. Have fun! And don't get discouraged if you don't get it right the first time ....try painting another. Let me know how it goes....and don't hesitate to ask again if you need more specific input. <br />Keep those brushes wet!<br />SUSIE </span></span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-42736753787149921922010-05-02T14:48:00.000-07:002010-05-02T14:52:41.628-07:00What's your brush for painting skies?Question: Susie, I have your dvd on clouds, which is fantastic. Can you please tell me what brush you use. It looks like it is about 1-1/2 to 2". I bought one, but it is too thin and leave streaks (I paid quite a bit for it). Thanks. Pat<br /><span style="color:#009900;">SUSIE'S REPLY:</span><br /><span style="color:#009900;">Hi Pat,<br />The brush I use is a cutter-type brush made from hog bristles (once used by sign painters to “cut” in sharp letters).<br />The industry stopped making this type brush since most signs are now digitally made. So the brushes were hard to find.<br />Daniel Smith listened to my plea and started making this brush for me and my classes. They call it the Susie Short chiseled tip watercolor wash brush and they sell them in their catalog and online. </span><a title="http://www.danielsmith.com/" href="http://www.danielsmith.com/"><span style="color:#009900;">http://www.danielsmith.com/</span></a><span style="color:#009900;"><br />I sell them in my little </span><a title="http://artstore.susieshort.net/" href="http://artstore.susieshort.net/"><span style="color:#009900;">artstore</span></a><span style="color:#009900;"> too. But the price is better on the DS site since I buy my brushes from them then add a little mark up.<br /><br />Truth be told I use this brush for 75% or more of almost every painting I do. It’s a good size for all washes and under paintings.<br />And it’s great for foliage and texture when using dry-brush techniques.<br /><br />Thanks for writing! And have fun painting those skies!<br />Keep those brushes wet! Susie</span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-32348800193962667732010-03-20T14:43:00.000-07:002010-03-20T14:55:41.632-07:00Watercolor Pencils<span style="font-weight: bold;">Question: </span><span>As a complete beginner - aged 78 - can you tell me if it is possible to erase watercolour pencil? Thanks! Patricia<br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Susie's Reply: Welcome to the Wonderful World of Watercolor!! Don't be afraid to jump in with both feet!<br />For the most part, depending on how dark and how much pressure was used when applying, watercolor pencils are not entirely erasable with a standard eraser. You can moisten the marks and get them to dissolve almost entirely with some gentle agitation provided you are using good quality paper. Marks made with watercolor pencils on damp paper are even more stubborn to remove.<br />There are some good instruction books on using watercolor pencils that go into much more detail as to what they will do and how to use them. For me personally I love to use them to draw in a light sketch for placement or to add a vein to a flower or a whisker on a critter.<br />Enjoy your journey!</span><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">SUSIE</span><br /><!-- google_ad_section_end --><span style="line-height: 5pt;"><br /></span></span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-52473767950270432292010-03-20T14:14:00.000-07:002010-03-20T14:18:20.783-07:00Watercolor on a Cruise<span>Hi Susie,</span><span> I am just wondering if you have ever considered giving lessons on a cruise ship. If it was in Jan or Feb I'd be first in line!!! That would be awesome!</span> Thanks,<span>Lenore<br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Susie's Reply: YES! I'd love to teach watercolor lessons on a cruise ship! I'll have to look into that and see how we can make that happen!</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Anyone else interested? Let me know!</span><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">SUSIE</span><br /><span style="line-height: 5pt;"><br /><br /></span></span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-246279102043530832010-03-20T14:09:00.001-07:002010-03-20T14:12:43.285-07:00Thining masking fluids<span style="font-size:0pt;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /></span><br /></span>FYI: Masking fluid also known as drawing gum or liquid frisket is used to reserve whites when painting with watercolor.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Question: When masking fluid gets thick how can I thin it so it can be used again?</span><span style="font-size:0pt;"><span style="font-size:100%;"><br /><br /></span></span><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(0, 153, 0);font-size:100%;" >Susie's Replay:</span><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"> Unfortunately there is not a simple answer to this problem. I find than most masking fluids have a relatively short shelf life once they have been opened and exposed to air. Most manufacturers state the shelf life for masking fluid is +/- 12 months.<br />Depending on the formula used to make the masking fluid (most are made of</span><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"> latex</span><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"> with ammonia added as a preservative) you might try adding a drop or two of pure ammonia (not ammonia with soap added.) Sometimes a drop of water will work, but not always. Test first! Try thinning a small amount in a separate container so as not to destroy the whole bottle of masking.<br />My best advice is its better to be safe than sorry..... if in doubt as to whether using old masking will work as it is intended don't risk it on an important project. If you are just experimenting and playing with the paint then you can afford to take a risk.<br />If possible check with the manufacturer of your brand to see what they recommend.<br /><br />Thanks for your question. I'd be interested to know if you find out there's a better solution.<br />SUSIE</span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-70928325173265899762010-03-20T14:01:00.001-07:002010-03-20T14:41:42.584-07:00Painting backgrounds<span><span style="font-weight: bold;">Question:</span> Hi Susie, I have been painting for a while but still have a problem with background painting,it looks splotchy, even tho I try to keep the edges wet as I go but painting around the painting is the problem. Joan</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Susie's reply:</span><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"> Hi Joan! </span><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Without seeing your work its hard to say what you could be doing wrong, but I can almost bet the splotchy look you are describing is caused by unequal amounts of water in your brush and on your paper.</span> <span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Try working on a smaller limited section...blending off as you go and try not to paint near a damp area. In other words skip around and allow the areas to dry before you paint next to them. Learning how to "read" how damp your paper is and whether adding more moisture will create unwanted blossoms or balloons is an acquired skill that comes with practice.</span><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"></span><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Another tip you might try is to paint at a slight slant so your paint creates a small bead at the bottom of where you are working. Then when you add your next stroke the bead falls into it keeping the flow going and the painting smooth.</span><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Still another tip would be to blot or test your brush before you add a stroke into a damp passage to make sure that the moisture in your brush and the moisture on your paper are equal.</span><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Again practice will help you learn what to look for and how to avoid splotchy areas.</span><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Don't give up! Keep painting!</span><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">SUSIE</span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8941519150769362030.post-83758537576300498812010-03-20T14:01:00.000-07:002010-03-20T14:04:35.906-07:00Painting backgrounds - to paint or not to paint?<span style="font-weight: bold;">Question:</span> When painting Flowers, does the Background always have<br />to be painted; or can it be left white?<br />Tend to be afraid of doing Backgrounds, as I'm just learning. Lois<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Susie's reply:</span><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);"> Hi Lois! It's not always necessary to paint the background. It can be left white (unpainted) and still be very striking. Many botanicals are left white. After all, white is a color and just because a background is white doesn't mean that the painting is unfinished. </span><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">If you are afraid of doing backgrounds behind the work you've done on the flowers try painting the background first. A background does not have to be dark or detailed, sometimes just a hint of color or texture adds just the right touch.</span><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">As with most things we learn to do when painting in watercolor, repeating or practicing will be beneficial to getting over the hurdle as we continue on our painting journey. The more we paint the better we get! </span><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Don't be afraid the to try painting backgrounds, sometimes once you to get the background painted, the painting is half done.</span><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">On the same hand don't be afraid to leave your background white. Let it be your artistic choice.... you do have a license!</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(0, 153, 0);">Happy painting! </span>Susie Shorthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884417069008841197noreply@blogger.com0